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D. Craig Young

It’s What We Do – San Diego 100 Race Report

D. Craig Young · June 10, 2025 · 2 Comments

In June of 2012, I ran my first 100-mile trail race. Observing the 13th anniversary, I am republishing my ‘race report’ that appeared on an early version of the Trail Option blog (although the links don’t work, the original blog is here). It is rather long, but running 100 miles takes me a long time. In summary, I’m a 100-mile runner and that can’t be taken away; to finish is to win, and that motivates me to ‘keep going’ every day.

June 9, 2012–

TrailOption – Young Mountain Runners

A year ago I challenged myself and started a journey supported by family (the Young Mountain Runners) and friends, and somewhere along the way I became an ultrarunner. It is not merely that I ran an Ultra event (longer than 26.2 miles), it is a longer and, maybe, deeper transformation as intimidation is replaced by a desire to go long distances on demanding or interesting trails. This past weekend I broke through the bounds of my original challenge by clutching the first grail of the ultrarunner, thereby completing the transformation, with a finish at the San Diego 100. Here’s the story…

Darren and I arrived in San Diego on Thursday night, meeting Tim Long and Jes at the airport. After a border-crossing-like inquisition at Budget Rental Car, we dropped into a hotel in the city. Darren’s recent injury and a hacking cough had removed him from considering the race, but he would crew with my excellent friend Henri Migala and pace me during the second half of the event.

On Friday we got in a quick shake-out run in the Mission Ridge Park guided by Matt, a friend of Tim’s.  My goal was basically not to twist an ankle or do anything that would compromise my start. Having nervously but successfully navigated the park trails, we had the biggest lunch I’d probably ever eaten, met up with Henri, and then moved up into the hills for the pre-race meeting.

Scott Mills corralled the runners, crews, and hangers-on into the lodge at the Al Jahr Shrine Camp on the slopes of Mt. Laguna at about 6,000 feet. It is a slightly different vibe when you sit in as a runner rather than a crew-member as I had at the Leadville 100 and at the much more informal gathering that is the Buffalo 100. At Scott’s demand, I joined many others in standing when he asked all the first-time 100-milers to rise. This group received encouraging applause from the gathering; from now on, I give the applause and encouragement, but I will no longer be standing at that call. The instructions were as straight-forward as anyone would need — the course is marked; have fun, don’t die. (Of course, Scott doesn’t say that, but it’s what I hear). Questions followed, but it was rather basic stuff.

Our hotel in Alpine was perfect though a little cramped with the four of us. Tim kept inventing reasons he would come up lame and encouraged me to get some rest and hydrate. I was putting his coaching skills on the line tomorrow. My pre-race build-up: do good = it’s because Tim is my coach; do poorly = well, Tim is my coach. Nope, this is on me. I packed and re-packed the crew bag and laid out my uniform for the morning.

Up at 4:30 as Tim gathered his gear and we were quickly into the morning fog of the San Diego marine layer. We soon escaped the fog as we climbed to Al Jahr and joined the gathering runners and crews. We could not have asked for a better day. I thought I would have a few edgy nerves, but the pre-race line up seemed about like any other event. I had settled into the realization and determination to simply get going and keep going. I made some final plans with Darren and Henri and settled into a mid-pack spot, this could not be a quick start. I had to keep to my plan.

Scott Mills, Race Director, at the San Diego 100-mile start, Al Jahr campground.

Scott screeched a few last-minute instructions from a bull-horn, and then the countdown began — we were off at 7 AM.  One hundred eighty-nine of us funneled into the little campground roads heading toward the grassy meadows of the Laguna Lakes. Shortly after the start, however, I passed a figure in the trees throwing-up. I looked at my watch, 0.25 miles; is this what it’s like? If so, it’s going to be a long day. We soon transitioned to single-track and a quick pace set in. I did not want to go too fast, but I also wanted to escape the crowds. After a time I felt somewhat alone, though I could hear voices. In most races it seems usual for me to get isolated between fast groups up-front and slower groups behind. From the air it might look like I was optimistically bridging the gap between the two groups, but I’m usually happy to just sit in-between until the whole thing simply spreads out. This wasn’t the case here. Thinking I was alone I ran smoothly into a corner and happened to glance back, immediately behind me jogged what looked like 50 people! I had no gap, which was probably fine and good, but I also felt immediately claustrophobic. But it is a race afterall, I guess other people have to be here!

The first aid station (Meadows) was about 7 miles into our day. It has a little out-and-back section to access the check-in and station tent. Here, I ran into a completely new experience (a first of many). It’s an easy spot for crew, family, and friends to cheer on their runner and given that all the runners are relatively bunched up, I was soon threading through a gauntlet of cheering, encouraging, and photo-snapping fans. It was awesome. If it’s going to be crowded, it might as well be a pack of cheering supporters! After about 100 yards of this I saw Darren and Henri (my most excellent crew) waiting with a filled water bottle and a few gels. I downed a couple S-Caps (salt) and retraced my way through the throng.

The first aid station breaks the flow of the conga-line, and soon it was just small groups along the trails around some meadows. The day was warming but it suited me, and I focused on my half-hour schedule of gels and caps. At the Red-Tail aid station (AS) I again met the crew (Mile 13.8; 2:40) and traded my bottles for my Nathan Pack along with a long sleeve shirt and a brimmed hat. I would not get access to my crew until Mile 44 due to permit stipulations and general access limitations. I was on my own for the afternoon, although plenty of wonderfully volunteered stations and occasional runners would punctuate the time.

I did see Darren and Henri a couple times, but they could only be spectators as I cruised by on my way to the Penny Pines AS. In this span I realized that my delusion of possibly finishing within 24 hours was just that, a delusion. I jettisoned the thought from my plan for the day and felt satisfied that I was moving forward smoothly if not as fast as I dreamed. It was all about finishing, the time would come on its own. And I wasn’t going to let the now-irrelevant split times on my little chart get me down.

On the way to Penny Pines Aid Station, about 20 miles in.

After Penny Pines (Mile 23.6; 4:50), I descended brushy Noble Canyon, getting a little careful on the more technical sections. The heat of the afternoon was building but a breeze cut through. I kept focused on hydration and fuel, enjoying the relatively quick time between gels. “It can’t be time for another GU already?!” It meant I was moving forward. I finally reached the Pine Creek AS (Mile 31.3; 6:33) realizing that I was feeling the effort and succumbing a little to the heat. The volunteers were great. and I was doused with water and gulped as much electrolyte drink as I could handle before setting off on the short loop ahead of me.

The Pine Creek loop seemed like a complete climb, always up and never a descent. How is that possible?  It went much slower than I expected but I finally returned to the Pine Creek AS (Mile 36; 8:05) and re-did the ritual, taking my time because now came a climb with a reputation. At the height of the afternoon, I had 2,400 feet to ascend in a few miles, much of it on west-facing asphalt followed by exposed trail. There’d be little to no shade for a while. I made sure the Nathan was full and set out. I basically walked uphill for the next 8 miles. A few places afforded a little jog, but nothing that broke from the overall slow pace. Although I never felt too bad, I began to wonder if I would ever have some good running sections again. In hindsight, I actually gained back time on my very optimistic splits on this section!

Pioneer Mail Aid Station — Mile 44

Seeing Darren and Henri at Pioneer Mail (Mile 44.1; 10:51) changed all that. Although I kind of thought it would be nice to hang around with them for a while, I let them re-stock my pack and moved on. Rejuvenated and helped by an awesome tailwind, I scampered on, upward along the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). It became a ridge-line trail, nicely exposed and looking down over the Anza Borrego Desert thousands of feet below. I felt I was really cruising again, but any glance at my watch showed my pace was well below what I might have thought. OK, so stop looking at that thing. It doesn’t matter. I did catch some folks, but I was also caught by the Jester. Damn, but he’s a machine and I had to keep to my own race — let him go.

I broke through the 50-mile point just before Sunrise AS (Mile 51; 12:44), where ironically maybe, the sun was setting. I changed socks and ate something besides GU (a hotdog!) here. Jeff Browning, in the midst of shattering the course record, stopped in for an Indy-like though seemingly relaxed pit-stop. He was standing right next to me but, at the same instant, was 30 miles ahead of me. Cool, he was right where I wanted him.

Darren had offered to join in as my pacer (allowed at this point), but I wanted a little more time on my own, so I grabbed my headlamp and re-stocked pack and started into the dusk. The evening cooled as night settled in, and we approached Lake Cuyamaca. The starry headlamp dances began around me as I slowly gained on or was passed by others. As I looped in and out of small canyons I could look back over the course and see headlamps, solo or in little pairs and groups, trailing behind me. It was encouraging and the little lights beautifully matched the stars and occasional planes descending into San Diego.

Scott had warned us that an equine endurance event had been run around Lake Cuyamaca earlier in the day and that we might run into some stray flagging, pink rather than our orange. I saw a “Vet Check” sign and figured I wasn’t quite ready for the glue factory, so I kept with the orange. But orange flags had recently decreased in frequency, and I was soon concerned I’d taken a misstep somewhere along the way. The trail seemed clear and there were others following me, but they could simply be thinking I was on course. I had a few discouraging minutes but soon ran across an orange ribbon in the grass at my feet. I’m ok, just go. I’d been doing pretty well lately, and I was enjoying the rebound from the hot climbs of the late afternoon.

Darren and Henri were ready for me at Stonewall Mine AS (Mile 59; 14:55). Again, I changed socks — the sand and cheatgrass were making little burning spots — and grabbed my Z-poles which I’d added to my gear at the last minute before leaving home (beautiful idea). Darren was also ready to join me, though now we only had a small climb before the descent along Sweetwater Creek. NOT. It was a huge climb, ever-upward as it seemed like we were following headlamps into the sky.  

Eventually we descended on a fence-lined trail with outcrop-filled switchbacks (how do the horses get down these?) to Paso Picacho AS (Mile 64; 17:56). Ok, maybe I changed socks here, the stations were starting to blend together. George Ruiz (Carson City) and Chet, his pacer, caught me here; they were going steadily forward. I was happy we finally had the gradual downhill to Sweetwater. NOT. Another huge climb grew out of the dark. But this time we could look back on our previous hill and see headlamps streaming down; at least we weren’t there!

The watch battery died in here somewhere, and it was hard to judge distances. Darren, still with a working watch, would say something like “Four miles in” and after what seemed like a half-hour, “Three miles to go to Sweetwater”. What?! Ok, settle in. It doesn’t matter. Eventually we saw headlamps heading up the opposite side of the valley, but that didn’t mean it was all that close. It wasn’t. But we finally saw the lights and soon stumbled into the creek at the highway bridge. We were marginally successful at jumping the flowing sections of creek but still got wet enough. And then the cold began to seep in as we made the Sweetwater AS (Mile 72; 20:20). Henri was waiting with the gear; the packs were covered with frost! This AS was half-party and half-MASH tent. One great guy was fixing burritos while in the corner runners were curled up under blankets and simply looking miserable. The drop-out rate was rather high by now. I do remember getting dry socks here plus the luxury of a dry shirt, jacket, and pants. I scored a couple burritos, and we were off again. Let’s stay on the party side of the line!

And party it was, sort of. We climbed slowly into the distant light of morning, jogging occasionally but mostly staying focused on forward movement. The Z-poles had helped with all the climbs and descents, and I was grateful for having them. Soon enough we passed Mile 78, slaying demons from Darren’s recent 100-mile attempts. We weren’t looking back.

This time Sunrise AS (Mile 80; 23:06) was appropriately named. The climb had taken way too long, but we felt good. Henri was sure an earthquake had awoken him as he waited for us, but it was merely Darren grabbing the gear from the waiting truck (thanks for the truck Henri!). I relished the new shoes and socks in my drop bag and, dropping off the poles, I returned to the simple uniform of shirt and shorts. I even indulged in a rather extravagant breakfast burrito as I left the station. Now we were re-tracing old trails in the rejuvenating light of the morning. Twenty-four hours had almost come and gone, but now only a good 20-mile run to go.

Relatively speaking we began to tear it up. Ok, our pace wasn’t great, but it felt good to go in little intervals and it did allow us to catch a few people. The exposed trail was awesome to repeat, and I enjoyed showing Darren the sights I’d seen the evening before. The burritos began to catch up to me, however, and though I didn’t feel bad, I occasionally thought something bad might happen. But it was only a little extra propulsion helping me along! (oh, the details).

We dropped into Pioneer Mail (Mile 87.5; 25:25) with building confidence that we were really cutting into the miles. Only a small climb and descent to the next aid at Mile 91. NOT. Now all the hills seemed huge. The trail wound back and forth and up and up, but I had to simply encourage myself that it was just a mile like any other, and one more mile toward the unmoving goal. We pulled into Penny Pines (Mile 91; 26:39) at about 9:40 AM. Inquiring about an outhouse, I was told it was just down a trail at the highway. What the heck, I had time. “Yeah, the cut-off isn’t until noon.” What?!! “The cut-off for this station.” Oh, relief, I did have time.

What followed was another long climb along the PCT. We gained on a few people, but we weren’t really going very quickly. We simply encouraged ourselves to get to the top. Passing a Boy Scout troop, I requested a “running badge” to no avail, but heard the leader tell the boys, it’s all downhill now. And so it was. Finally. 

We caught a guy worried about the up-coming trail intersection and turn, figuring he’d passed it, he seemed to be frantically checking his phone or GPS for info. We’d heard it was well-marked so we scooted on, hollering back at him when we found it. A couple guys passed us just before the Rat Hole AS (Mile 96.2; 28:08). I had grabbed my Z-poles for the last climb, so I ditched them here. I was thinking about pushing it pretty hard now. Simply thinking about it, that is. But even the thought does some good, and as we crossed into the Laguna Meadows area again, I began to smell the barn. Darren encouraged me, though his coughing seemed to be gaining on both of us. He’d been up all night too and was merely completing a 42-mile “run” of his own.

We’d been told there would be a “1-mile to go” sign and kept thinking it would be around each corner. I recognized the landmarks just outside the Al Jahr campground and knew we were closing in. But no sign. At a small gate a lady told me “10 minutes to go” and I checked my watch. It was 11:50 AM and I decided a 28 would be better than 29 and got to it. Where it comes from I have no idea. After almost 29 hours of effort, I found more energy than I would ever have imagined. I simply put my head down and went. A group of walking “runners” ahead spurred me further. I rather rudely charged through them, but they shouted encouragement (Thanks guys!). I was close. I dropped my Nathan pack thinking I would have nice photo at the finish or something. But the campground roads zigged and zagged around familiar looking buildings and campsites. I was following the arrows and flags, but it felt like I was going in circles. I was really starting to burn out but speeding up all the same. What?! A little bridge? And more trail behind some houses. Two times around the propane tank?? (ok, not really, but I expected it next). And then, getting my pace somewhere in the vicinity of 8-minute miles, I spun around a final turn and there it was, the home stretch. I heard Scott call my name on the bullhorn and I was there to shake his hand. 28 hours, 57 minutes, 25 seconds.

The happy relief is beyond words. After a year of training, reading, listening, and wondering, it was over. I had come 100 miles, but had crossed a greater distance to who I am.

I learned many things. First, it isn’t that bad. Second (I’ll stop counting down now), I could do better. I spent too much time in aid stations. For a first go this was great, and it kept me confident and relatively strong, but it was simply too much time succumbing to company and rest; probably on the order of an hour and a half in total, maybe more. The trails were difficult at night; I need more experience there. Most importantly, I learned I want to do this again, and again. It is truly, what we do.

Hearty thanks to Scott Mills and all of the extra-ordinary volunteers. Every station was a happy island in a wilderness of climbs and descents. I loved seeing every one of you; the burritos were the best. Some great guys and gals stood at a few of the turns and pointed the way, though I probably didn’t need it, it was nevertheless great to say hi and be cheered forward.

I reserve special and enduring thanks to Darren. He’s been the hero I’ve chased along many miles. We are an elite team, though unfortunately the talent is spread across two people. My life is better because I ran this (and because I run), and he pointed the way down the first trails. Keep going bro… I’m on it.

The Young Mountain Runners – Going 100

Special thanks also to Tim Long, who coached me along a physical and mental routine that primed the machine. He kept saying I’d do great. Once that sets into your head, you’re golden. Thanks for spreading a cool shadow along the trails. Third place at San Diego finishing at 2 AM and he was there at the finish line when I sprinted in for 88th place ten hours later! Sweet.

Tim Long (aka Footfeathers) welcomes me to the 100-mile club.

Henri, thanks for your truck and your time. And for continually yelling, “hey, would you guys hurry up, I’m tired!” I’ll miss that at every other race I ever do. I couldn’t have asked for or hired a better crew. I hope you got some sleep.

Henri Migala, my long-time friend and longer-time crew (here at Pioneer Mail).

And though I hit the trails way more than I should, Desna smiles on me, takes care of the feet, and keeps me fueled in so many ways. I say thanks in every mile on the trail; you’re the pull that gets me there and back again.

I run always with the Young Mountain Runners, my family. IWWD.

Gear: Patagonia Software; Injini and Patagonia socks; Hoka Stinson Bs (many training miles, retired at Mile 80), Hoka Mafates (Mile 80 to 100.2); McDavid compression sleeves; Nathan 2.0L pack; Black Diamond headlamp, light-weight gloves, and Z-poles; Garmin 310XT (17 hours anyway), at least 36 GUs (equal parts Mint Chocolate and Roctane Pineapple) and S-Caps galore. Note: I carried the Roctane GU because it has a little caffeine. Note to self: Pineapple Roctane does not have caffeine (post-race discovery).

Embracing Distractions: Mason Valley – Seaman Range – Lunar Craters

D. Craig Young · May 26, 2025 · 2 Comments

“These images and words are a reflection, simply and wholly, of my respect for our public lands and the public science and occasional art I am, and we are, able to do there. Our ability to create and think are not trivial, and wild space and healthy ecosystems nourish such things. It is here that we will find our better selves, even as the misdeeds of a few threaten much that, until recently, provides for our common good. Keep going.“


NvGO Notes 2025.03.14

Biconic. Young volcanic cones rise in the Lunar Craters National Natural Landmark, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA

Maybe high points don’t have to be the goal. I established my High Points quest in the 1990s to encourage my exploration of the Nevada outback. I knew summit goals could guide me as I traversed Nevada’s Basin and Range and grew familiar with its amazing variety of desert landforms. Over 30 intervening years, I was not as persistent in my high-point pursuit as I could have been – I missed several years or went months at a time without visiting a summit, but my exploration has been almost ceaseless as I worked on a wide variety of geoarchaeological projects and managed to summit 130 of Nevada’s 317 (or so) named ranges. I grew more patterned and regular as I began writing about the excursions. I am, however, due for change.

I love walking hills and will continue to do so, but the list has become mildly oppressive. My desire to experience Nevada’s variety of places and landforms is no less, but I found myself focusing on the summit without slowing to take time and experience a place. The value and pleasure of creating images and mapping landforms was, at times, forgotten or set aside. I will also admit that as I age, I am getting slower on the uphills (and downhills), so more time is needed to attain each summit, taking time away from other desires. I rarely, if ever, sit to watch for wildlife or changes in lighting on an outcrop or rock art panel. Something is often missing.

A start. A pair of Lesser Scaup take flight in Mason Valley WMA, Great Basin Desert, NV
Roost. Double-breasted Comorants await the morning sun, Mason Valley WMA, Great Basin Desert, NV

I begin to realize this as I circle the Worthington Hills in south-central Nevada, looking for a way through the recent snow. The ridges below the summit look great in parting clouds, but I am alone and cutting steps on the steep slopes I had hoped to climb does not seem prudent. I thought I had best leave the Worthingtons for another time and head to a lower set of hills on the White River near Hiko, snow-cover should be less there. I did not want to ‘waste’ a drive this far into southeastern Nevada and not get a summit, so I drove on – Distraction #1. Although I was surrounded by amazing scenes of snow-lined and cloud-wrapped peaks above Joshua Tree sharpness, I did not pause.

Lost snow. Horizons fade in a late snow in the Great Basin Desert, NV

As I approach the Hiko Hills, I find a long stretch of irrigation pivots fenced behind ‘no trespassing’ signs. It is late in the day, so I decide to venture around the fields and gain the high point in the morning. I turn into the foothills of the Seaman Range and eventually find a faint two-track that leads to a secluded alcove among a maze of granite outcrops, like a lonely version of the Alabama Hills. Distraction #2. A desire to explore the outcrops begins to take precedence; attention to the nearby hills fades.

Towers. Granitic outcrops of the Seaman Range, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA
Hanging on. A juniper tree clings to the granite of the Seaman Range, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA
Whale rock. Heavy shapes in the outcrops of the Seaman Range, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA
Way through. Clasts and texture in the granitic outcrops of the Seaman Range, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA

I set camp and wander until after dark, returning to my little camp as snow begins to fall. There is enough wind to push the feathery flakes sideways, and soon an inch or two of snow powders the bitterbrush and sage and covers my tent and field boxes. Distraction #3 – these are getting healthier as I push the any high point further from my mind, wanting only to wander the granite for images in the morning light. I will probably have fog in the desert!

The squalls clear overnight, and the moon takes over, adding bright ambience to haunting calls of a Great Horned Owl. I crawl out of the tent in the pre-dawn as the moon sets beyond Mount Irish. Snow brightens slowly, while the fog teases from the canyon of the White River, far to the east. It is not adding to the intrigue of the nearby hoodoos and spires, but at least I was not wrong completely; it is here, sort of. I grab my gear and lose myself among the rocks.

Last blue. Sunrise approaches the snow-spattered outcrops of the Seaman Range, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA
Crystal layers. Weathering release in the plutonic granite of the Seaman Range, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA

I cannot say that I came away with portfolio imagery, but it was the most fun I’d had in a long while photographing. Distraction #4 – I could not care less about the Hiko Hills except to enjoy the fog along their distant slopes. I would not be hiking any hills today, and that was OK.

After a wonderful morning, the snow melting almost immediately with the sunrise, I head back onto Highway 93, traipsing through a couple Wildlife Management Areas, eventually turning toward Lunar Craters National Natural Landmark. Distraction #5 – I was now excited about scouting locations, thinking about landforms I could document, and enjoying an excursion without goals. I became practically joyful considering how the ‘distractions’ allowed me the freedom to develop a refreshed approach to Second Friday and excursions into the Nevada outback.

Before or after. A dash of color in the cold of blue hour, Seaman Range, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA

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I never thought I would climb every high point on my list, it has always been aspirational, something to keep me going, something to highlight the lesser-known places – why else would I even think about visiting the Hiko Hills? But I really do not need the list, the intrinsic value, beauty, and curiosity of our public lands – now facing challenges unpredictable – is aspiration and inspiration enough. We will see where the distractions lead.

Keep going.

Spring flight. A Red-tailed Hawk searches the Lunar Craters National Natural Landmark, Great Basin Desert, NV

Please respect the natural and cultural resources of our public lands.

#naturefirst #keepgoing

Nevada High Points #130 – Pilot Mountains

D. Craig Young · March 24, 2025 · 1 Comment

Desert fabric. Alluvial carved hills of the southern Pilot Mountains, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA
Desert fabric. Alluvial carved hills of the southern Pilot Mountains, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA
Location map for Pilot Peak in the Pilot Mountains, Nevada

Pilot Peak

9187 ft (2800 m) – 2418 ft gain

2025.02.38

Keep Public Lands Public


Every once in a while, on these high point wanders, I choose a really good route. Not that there are bad routes, but I often end up choosing a misleading side canyon of riparian bushwhacking, leading to bouldery talus below false summits. Other times I get to the evident high point where I notice a confusing array of summits of similar elevation, so I question my maps and wander around visiting each one. Again, this is not a bad thing, it is always good to be in the hills – unless the light is fading, or a storm is coming. My route on Pilot Peak, however, was perfect.

A narrow inset alluvial fan and floodplain in the bottom of Dunlap Canyon is the only mappable Quaternary landform along my route.

I had turned off Highway 395 just before Mina, NV, heading into Dunlap Canyon. The road is well maintained, likely because it is secondary access to communication towers adorning the summit; the main, newer route is via Telephone Canyon further south and west. I suspect the road originated as the Dunlap mining district developed. I park at a prominent fork in the canyon, leaving my truck in a thick Juniper grove, and I walk the westerly fork heading upward toward Pilot Peak rising a few thousand feet above me.

A mining cabin hangs on in Dunlap Canyon, Pilot Mountains, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA
Lost camp. A mining cabin hangs on in Dunlap Canyon, Pilot Mountains, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA

A lonely cabin sits among trees just off the road, and it is here that I decide to leave the graded track to find my way among Juniper woodland and patchy snow. Although it has been incredibly warm for late February, a few snow squalls had rolled through in the past couple of days. Snow covers north-facing slopes where the sun cannot reach on even the warmest days. I climb away from an inset floodplain of Dunlap Canyon to find dry ridges on volcanic tuff. The Juniper are widely spaced; vegetation density drops as we approach the transition to Mojave Desert communities not too far south of the Pilot Mountains. The route steepens so I contour among the few trees and sparse sagebrush before heading directly to the north ridge that extends from the main summit. Scant and twisted Juniper greet me at the ridge, artifacts of the arid wind that binds them to the distance as the valleys drop to either side.

Edge grove. Lower summit ridge in the Pilot Mountains, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA
Edge grove. Lower summit ridge in the Pilot Mountains, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA

Turning south, I avoid a false summit by crossing crunchy snow, cutting solid steps on the steep slope. It is at the southern end of the snow that I find the road from Telephone Canyon, which I can see tracing into deep, dark, and snow-filled canyon far below. It looks very interesting but would have been a very long, slow approach in late winter.

Shards. Snow remnants in the Pilot Mountains, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA
Shards. Snow remnants in the Pilot Mountains, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA

I reach an expanse of 360-degree views on the summit, but the highpoint is otherwise unimpressive. Buildings and towers crowd machine-cut platforms, and a low hum of electronics (or cooling for the electronics) pervades the calm. The sun is setting beyond Boundary Peak and the White Mountains to my west, and Earth’s shadow rises opposite. I put on another layer, but do not linger long. It is going to be dark soon, and I have left my headlamp in the truck. Time is of the essence.

Mountains beyond. South of Pilot Peak in the Pilot Mountains, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA
Mountains beyond. South of Pilot Peak in the Pilot Mountains, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA

Steep-cut switchbacks wind among mining prospects on the eastern front of Pilot Peak. I can follow these, cutting through occasional snow, until I find a descending ridge that leads me into the dark of Dunlap Canyon. The dirt of the road is just visible in the last gasp of blue hour. Imaginary sounds in the Juniper at road’s edge keeps me attentive; I am curious what the Mountain Lion – the one I never see – thinks of this wandering figure in the canyon bottom. Not worth the effort, I hope. Nevertheless, the adrenaline jumps every now and then, as my thoughts wander.

I never feel any real danger in the back country, I am cautious typically. My technical climbing days are over, so I pick routes of relative ease. The chances of encountering a predator interested in me are low. I have yet to see a Cougar, the one large animal still missing from my list of Great Basin critters. It is good, however, to know they are out there, keeping it wild and keeping us thinking about them. The wild things help me to feel alive, my senses present. I hope someday to share a moment with a large cat, as I have with song dogs, Bighorn Sheep, Pronghorn, and the birds of night and day.

Against the grain. Outcrops of the Pilot Mountains, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA
Against the grain. Outcrops of the Pilot Mountains, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA

Pilot Peak was a good loop. By chance, and some practice, I chose unbroken ridges and fitting slopes. I had the pleasure of evening light on the summit, and the tingling thrill of a canyon walk in the dark. I will view the towers often as I drive Highway 395, but I will also know what lies beyond the altered high point – the ridges and slopes where you can see and feel in the dark. And that brings us life.

Keep going.

Please respect the natural and cultural resources of our public lands.

#naturefirst #keepgoing

Nevada High Points #129 – Royston Hills

D. Craig Young · February 23, 2025 · 2 Comments

Rolling summit. High points can be subtle, Royston Hills, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA

Unnamed

6675 ft (2012 m) – 980 ft gain

2025.01.09


While I try to keep a regular schedule to get into Nevada’s Basin and Range every Second Friday, regardless of other fieldwork obligations, it is also good to combine an excursion with a visit to a fieldcrew working some project, somewhere. At the moment, we have archaeological survey crews working in the Broken Hills above Gabbs Valley, so my day begins there. It is nice to solve the puzzle of locating them in the open landscape of volcanic hills – an area my brother Darren and I visited a couple years ago. Darren is on a fieldcrew this rotation, and he gave me some approximate coordinates so that I could get close. I park within a mile of his coordinates and set out, finding the first crew as they work the lobes of an alluvial pediment east of the Broken Hills mine site. I then move north to find Darren and his crew in dendritic inset washes and pediment lobes in higher country.

Leaving the fieldcrews in the early afternoon – I am not currently on the ‘official’ rotation, so I let them continue their surveys and head south of Gabbs to access the western slopes of the Royston Hills. As I climb a good road away from Pole Line, heading for Dicalite Summit, a low pass between the Cedar Mountains and Royston Hills, I encounter large washouts from inset floods of past years; likely relict scars of the tropical moisture of Hurricane Hilary in August 2023, or something very similar. The roads are incised but passable, but I cannot find several of the mapped two-tracks that run parallel to the local drainage pattern; they are eroded away. I eventually turn down a wash, hoping to find a spot in the now-widened floodplain to set camp and begin my evening walk up the Royston Hills. The gravelly sands provide a good surface. There was once a two-track, mining road here somewhere, but I am now passing larger boulders and uprooted trees – a powerful flood coalesced recently in this drainage.

Active floodplains (Qa4 and Qa3) are inset into older, beveled fans or alluvial pediments (Qa2 and Qa1). These are bounded by older volcanic tuffs (Qp2 and Qp1) beveled as the younger fans formed. The inset wash of Qa4 formed in the past few years.

Cenozoic tuffs and ash deposits rise in light-colored pedestals in the interfluves and at the channel margins. The white outcrops might make good photo subjects in the morning, so I decide to camp in a flat section of gravelly floodplain. Things get quickly interesting as I turn around. A sudden undercarriage impact and spinning rear tire finds me perched precariously on one of the erratic alluvial boulders. While I missed sighting it, I did not miss getting hung up on it. I climb out to have a look and find that my front tires a basically in the air, one by several inches. Mild panic – I am well stuck.  I gather my thoughts and get my shovel out – this is the second time I have been stuck after visiting the Gabbs Valley Survey Project, and the only two times I have been stuck in many years.

Hills beyond. The southern end of the Shoshone Mountains beneath scudding clouds, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA (Map point #2)

The rig is fine; it simply rests on the boulder, like a jack-stand – I could do tire maintenance as I sit here. A closer inspection, however, reveals that the cavity exposed by the turned boulder could be enlarged. If I can get rear-axle traction, I may be able to push the rock into its own divot. Several minutes of shoveling creates good space into which the rock can fall. I lock the differentials and shift into low gear. I apply power slowly, and the truck moves forward, at once releasing pressure on the rock as it drops into the larger hole. I am free. I roll a few feet and shut it down; with fresh relief it is time to walk.

And just in time, because this is supposed to be a High Point story! As it happens, however, the Royston Hills provide a long, quiet wander with none of the small drama of my short overland drive. The drive had left me on the low, eastern slopes of the Cedar Mountains, with the geographic boundary between the ranges marked by a mature dendritic drainage that pushes basinward to the south. I can map several surfaces of the inset floodplain that cuts and isolates the bounding pediment lobes. The youngest floodplain may only be a few years old; it is now dry and likely only flows in significant storms.

Arid floodplain. An incised wash meanders through its floodplain on the way to Cirac Valley, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA (Map point #1)

I am soon climbing west-facing slopes of the Royston Hills, reaching tabular basalts above Miocene volcanic tuffs and minor rhyolite outcrops. The basalt forms a rugged cap below which talus forms stone stripes that drape across the underlying stratigraphy. The rounded summit is a broad, boulder-strewn tableland. It is one of many all-too-common summits where it is difficult to determine the actual high point. The mapped benchmark is not it. I use the level in my camera to compare a nearby hilltop to the marked point – points marked on maps do not signify the high point by default, but they provide an initial target when contour lines do not help. The sun sets as I traverse to the higher, similarly rounded hilltop.

Evening hills. The late-day sun leaves Cirac Valley, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA (Map point #3)

It is a good summit regardless of its lack of drama. The views are nice in all directions as Arc Dome rises to the north and the dispersed ranges surrounding the southern reaches of Big Smokey Valley wrinkle the skyline to the south. The views disappear quickly as twilight transitions to night. I pull out my headlamp and begin a slow descent through bouldery talus. After walking through a small group of cows, I begin the easy walk up the inset floodplains toward my campsite. Two green points blink my way and are gone just as quickly. They reappear on an elevated surface to my left, looking very much like a vehicle on one of the still-remaining tracks higher up. But as I turn my headlamp on and off, the eyes wink back in time. Does the coyote wonder what this single-eyed creature is? It turns away, lost in the night.

I reach the truck and set camp by moonlight. It feels cold, but there is no breeze. Dinner is simple, and I am feeling the good walk at the end of a long day, so I crawl into my tent for the night. I am hoping to explore the Cedar Mountains in the morning.

Arc Dome. Last light on High Point #82, Toiyabe Range, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA (Map point #2)

The wind had different thoughts, however. Having fallen asleep sometime around midnight, I was awakened with a start by flapping nylon of the windward vestibule. I had set shallow stakes into the sandy floodplain, holding the tent easily in the earlier calm, but now the wind had pulled its first anchor. I had not zipped the tent door in the nice calm, so the vestibule fabric joined me inside. Then, as I rolled over to rearrange things, a roiling gust collapsed the tent suddenly and completely, pulling all windward stakes, leaving me as the only weight and last anchor as the bundle of fabric flapped vigorously in the freshening gusts, with me uselessly inside. I scrambled and pulled at the fabric to stick my head out of the folds to find sideways snow streaking past in the moonlight. A low bank of clouds, backlit and soon to swallow the moon, scudded across the Cedar Mountains. I had to move carefully to keep the collapsed tent from ballooning down the wash. I was very cold, quickly.

Holding the tent like a disjointed flag, I pulled its maze of poles from the fabric, having decided I would pack up and drive to the opposite side of the Cedars. It was just after 3am, and I wanted to photograph and document this storm that had ripped my tent from the ground and jolted me from my sleep. I stuffed the loose gear into the backseat and loaded my various field boxes into the truck bed. Easy enough.

A gauze of dust and snow veiled the stream-cut road as I worked my way down-fan toward Pole Line. As I turned toward Gabbs Valley, I looked forward to photographing a sunrise behind this powerful little storm. My hopes were soon erased. The moon reappeared, and the more I looped around the Cedar Mountains, the more the storm dissipated. It was soon gone altogether – not a cloud in the sky. I grew sleepy as the excitement faded into another orange to blue morning. Disheartened, ,I simply turned toward home, happy with the windy little adventure after the peaceful walk in the Royston Hills. First, though, I needed some sleep to drive safely. I turned off Highway 50 on a large gravel and strandline berm west of Sand Mountain, laid out my sleeping bag on a coppice dune, and slept for a couple hours. Just another Second Friday exploring the amazing landscape of the Great Basin, even the simplest walk is an experience.

Keep going.

Please respect the natural and cultural resources of our public lands.

#naturefirst #keepgoing

Field Notes 2025.01.15

D. Craig Young · January 15, 2025 · Leave a Comment

Winds of change. Squalls building along the Antarctic Peninsula

Starting 2025 by abandoning social media so that I might improve my focus on field excursions, research, writing, and photography.

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