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D. Craig Young

Trail Week 2018.07.09

D. Craig Young · July 16, 2018 · Leave a Comment

The 8-mile loop above Genoa, Nevada. Multiple trailhead possibilities, good climbs, and waterfall reward at Genoa Canyon. 1,400 feet gain with some quick descents along numerous switch-backs. Connects to several other trails, including the Tahoe Rim Trail via Sierra Canyon.

Trails: Van Sickle Down, Spooner Out&Back, Genoa Loop  — 19.5 mi; 4 hrs, 13 min; 2,621 ft gain. 

It’s time to get some regular trail time back in the mix. My trail rejuvenation and training has been hit-and-miss this year; it’s really been lacking since my running of Tahoe Rim Trail 50 last year, though I had some nice Winter Trail Series runs early in 2018. So, with motivation from Darren and Robert, who are running the Tahoe Rim Trail 100 next weekend, and considering I might get to accompany one of them as a pacer, it was time to lace ’em up and hit the single track. 

The summer heat is in full force with most days in the high 90s (or more), and that’s not the best time to jump back into trail training. And, of course, I’m older and less fit, so I can’t get discouraged by feeling slow and stumbly.  I’ll work back into it. I’m not targeting any particular race or heralded goal, I simply want to get back on the trail, clear the cobwebs from the body and mind, and keep it going. Maybe I’ll start thinking about finishing the Desolation section of the Tahoe Rim Trail in the fall, that could be good and practical motivation–I’ve yet to complete the Tahoe City to Echo Lake section of the wonderful circumnavigation of the lake.

With each afternoon at peak temperature, I decided it best to get up back up high. It is a bit of extra drive time to get up to the TRT, but the degrees fade with elevation and there’s usually an afternoon breeze to cool things somewhat. It sure beats the scorched trails of the valley bottoms. Plus, I hadn’t been on the TRT in almost a year, crazy as that seems to me. It’s time.

I got started with a short climb from TRT’s South Kingsbury Trailhead, soon veering onto the Van Sickle Trail, a route I’d never taken before. I thought it better to start confidently with a long downhill (though it hurt the next day). Better yet, Des could meet me at Van Sickle Bi-State Park at the California-Nevada line at South Lake Tahoe, and I could do a little point-to-point along the simple downhill. It’s a really nice trail with some open views of the lake. I had to be a bit careful because it’s mildly technical and rocky in a few places, and I was well out of practice. My 12-minute pace wasn’t impressive, but so happy to be up here and on the trail again. I followed up Thursday with an out-and-back jog at Spooner Trailhead, dropping to the Marlette Lake Trail for a few miles. I good still feel Tuesday’s downhill, but, again, this is a good thing.

For the weekend, I thought I top off the week with the good 8-mile loop that is the Genoa Trail. The trail weaves in and out of east-facing canyons and I got a bit of a late start. The mid-morning temperature wasn’t unbearable, but the oven of the canyons and the exposed ridges was ever-present. I climbed slowly and felt steady, even though it had been one of those mornings where I had to dig deep for motivation to get out the door and keep the training going. Somehow, those pre-run feelings of low expectations often translate into an enjoyable run. I didn’t break any records, and won’t be breaking any old records for a while, but I can already feel the rewards of mental relaxation and the small success of a return to the trail.

I’ll look forward to the coming week and a possible night-time adventure on the TRT. 

Memorial Day: Skunk Harbor, Lake Tahoe, NV

D. Craig Young · June 4, 2018 · Leave a Comment

The extended cycle of low-pressure storm systems, that seemed to continually rotate across the Great Basin, has ended momentarily. And, of course, after a few weeks of dramatic skies, morning and night, I get a break to get out on a short landscape photography evening. The western sky looked promising all day; some mid-level rotation and even some brief rain squalls at home, and I was sure I would get some golden hour to sunset light over Lake Tahoe. I have been wanting to get down to Skunk Harbor for awhile now, so this would be the afternoon to head out.

Lake Tahoe at Skunk Harbor

It is Memorial Day weekend, so I expect some traffic and maybe even a crowd. The cove of Skunk Harbor can get a few boats at anchor, social platforms of a kind, and I anticipate folks out for a day-hike. The cove isn’t too far from the highway, and the dirt road is an easy hike–the return can be warm and seem very steep in the heat of summer.

Skunk Harbor Collection

We’d worked around StoneHeart much of the day, trying to get a viable tree and garden irrigation system going, and planned an early dinner before I left for the Skunk. It’s about thirty minutes from StoneHeart to the Spooner turn-off on Highway 50. The gated road to Skunk Harbor is only a couple miles north of the Spooner State Park. Traffic was a bit heavy, but it is Sunday afternoon at the “official” start of summer and all Sundays will be busy around Tahoe now. The turn-out and overflow parking on the south-bound side of Highway 28 were full, not summer-time full, but I was let-down by how crowded it felt. Snuck my Subaru into the last of a long line of parked cars in the main pull-out just above the gate.

I packed up and headed down, it’s a nice easy walk. I was unsurprised when I began to pass an exodus of out-bound day-trippers; counted thirty-one as I approached the waterline. Am I alone now? No, a few folks hanging around in the last light, but I bet the pull-out parking is pretty lonely.

Stone Gables. The buildings of Skunk Harbor — 1/250″, f/4.5, ISO 200, 50mm
Stone glow

There are some nice rock buildings here, and some comprehensive interpretive signs telling the story. Come see and it all makes some sense. Otherwise, it is a classic and lovely east-side Tahoe cove with a small beach and the cliché-rounded granite boulders. There are some jetty pilings that sometimes provide leading fore-ground elements (ones that John Peltier has used to perfection) but with the return of high lake levels these are now inundated and only a single wooden support breaks the water’s surface, and just barely-it looks like flotsam.  Although the parallel series of abandoned, now-submerged pilings would be a nice addition to any composition, it’s the current lake-level that helps their preservation so we should be thankful when the lake overtakes them; I had hoped to catch an image of the parallel dock remnants, but happy to see the lake high and the beaches practically gone–we need some water in the bank.

Stone glow II

I wandered back-and-forth a bit, hoping to catch a composition. I’m not always patient enough to do this, but tonight I focused on simply taking my time and seeing what presented itself. I thought about the sunset–for once, I had a couple hours to consider it–and wandered to some bouldery outcrops on the north side of the cove. From here I could look back toward the rock building, let the setting sun help me out, and maybe get some backlit clouds in a wide angle view. It was about now, although the thought had occurred to me at the car, that I realized how heavy my pack was. Why do I carry all this stuff?  I should be able to trim this kit once my experimenting and learning catches up with my gear syndrome.  Still, it’s fun to set up my main composition and then wander around practicing with other gear. Right now, I’m typically shooting “target” images with my Canon 5D mIV, while wandering with a Canon 80D. The lens choice varies with my composition, but I’m usually carrying a 17-40mm, a 24-70mm, a 70-200mm, and a prime 20mm. That’s simply too much and too many, but I’ll make better choices eventually, I hope.

Liquid Gold

Skunk Harbor Collection

I set up looking back toward the building and waited an hour for the light to grab the clouds. Wait, what? Where are those clouds that have been here for weeks, teasing me each evening as I stare longingly toward the Carson Range? They are basically gone. A few filaments hang here and there but I can tell the storms are spent and I’ve timed my excursion for a cloudless golden hour. Good light nonetheless, and a good time to practice patience to see what unfolds.  The cove lights up for a few minutes at sunset and the clear skies feel like summer. It must be Memorial Day.

Keep going.

Quinn River and the Sentinel

D. Craig Young · June 1, 2018 · Leave a Comment

Slumbering Hills. My mild attempt to bring out the light of Maynard Dixon, Great Basin Desert, NV, USA

I have been camped for a little more than a week with an archaeological team in the Quinn River Valley of northern Nevada. Our work focuses on the vast, natural obsidian sources of the Double H and Montana Mountains that rise west of the valley’s broad sagebrush and agricultural land. I have been doing research on obsidian sources in this area of northern Nevada, off and on, for over twenty years, and I am still amazed by the complexity of these ancient volcanic rocks. Of course, I enjoy every opportunity to get into this part of the Nevada outback. While we document the obsidian and archaeological sites throughout the source areas, I get time in the early mornings and late evenings to practice and capture compositions around our project area.

Quinn River Collection

Sentinel morning. First light is always fun. Seems a little unbalanced due to the dark outcrop. This is an HDR merge of two images. 1/15 sec, f/22, ISO 100; Canon 5Div, 17-40mm (38mm).
Sentinel moonset. The wide angle almost loses the moon. 1/25 sec, f/14, ISO 100; Canon 5Div, 17-40mm (17mm).

Sentinel Rock is a prominent landmark on the western side of the Quinn River Valley. I am on the road early one morning—the morning with a few clouds—to hike the ridge to the volcanic plug. I circle the outcrop to capture the sunrise and the moonset. The images are nice, but I struggle with how to work with the dynamic range while expressing the feeling of early morning light.

The clouds built into isolated and short-lived afternoon thunderstorms, so I worked into the evening to watch the light play on the mountains. I undoubtedly spent too much time on the big views of the light, as I often do, and this results in a general lack of clear subject or foreground interest in many of the images from the Quinn River evenings. It is a basic limitation of moving between camp and the project area, or heading out quickly at the end of a field day; there is little time to get settled into a specific place and find a story or compose one or two thoughtful images that highlight the experience of this part of the Great Basin.

Orovada rocks. The rainbows have faded, but the post-storm show had one more curtain-call. 1/20 sec, f/14, ISO 100; Canon 5Div, 70-200mm (168mm).
Camp after rain. Our field camp in the Quinn River Valley. 0.4 sec, f/22, ISO 100; Canon 5Div, 24-70mm (55mm).

I like this challenge, but I remain on a slow learning curve. So, my shots remain disconnected snippets of my time along the Quinn River, and yet, there are a couple favorites here that will inhabit my portfolio collection for the near future.

Scratched. Rock lines in the talus of Crowley Creek, the view from the Sentinel. I’m always on the lookout for animal tracks, scaled or not. 1/500 sec, f/8, ISO 400; Canon 80D, 70-200mm (168mm).
Red-winged sentinel. This noisy friend (Agelaius phoeniceus) followed me through the wetlands of Crowley Creek. 1/320 sec, f/4.5, ISO 200; Canon 80D, 70-200mm (168mm).
One. A lone sego lily (Calochortus nuttallii) in the sagebrush of Thacker Canyon. 1/1250 sec, f/5, ISO 200; Canon 80D, 24-70mm (53mm).
Camp host. A Great Horned Owl (Bubo virginianus) at rest in the mid-day, but keeping close eye on me. 1/130 sec, f/5.6, ISO 400; Canon 80D, 70-200 mm (180mm).

Quinn River Collection

Keep going.

Advantage of Windshield Time — Argenta Rim 2004

D. Craig Young · January 21, 2018 · 2 Comments

Argenta Rim

I drive a lot. Moving from project to project, I might be doing a pre-project reconnaissance, meeting clients or agency specialists, visiting field teams already on-the-ground, or seeking new study localities. It is part of the job and, for me, one of the pleasures of my vocation; it seems to be a highlight of my avocations too. Any highway or backcountry road puts me in touch with landscape and creates a discipline of watching for landform changes and of searching for new routes and trails deeper in. When a project takes me across the state (or anywhere really) I almost always take time for a trail, route, or locality excursion to expand my experience, or maybe just to bag a peak, run a ridge, or photograph an outcrop–there is little difference. In April 2004, I worked on a project on the US Air Force ranges of western Utah, studying the Wildcat Dunes at the margins of the Bonneville Basin and the Great Salt Lake Desert (i.e., the West Desert from the perspective of Salt Lake City). This required several back-and-forth trips on Interstate 80. Each time, between Battle Mountain and Carlin, Nevada, Argenta Rim called out for a walk.

The summit of Argenta Rim, a dramatic but easy ridge

The Range Argenta Rim is a volcanic ridge that rises prominently above Interstate 80 and the Humboldt River. A northerly extension of the Shoshone Range where Mount Lewis (2950 meters) wears the crown, Argenta Rim is a relatively low, tilted fault-block separated from its parent range by Whirlwind Valley. It is a minor set of hills and scarps that gains its prominence (and ease of access for a walk) as it rises abruptly above the Humboldt River floodplain and the busy interstate travel corridor – the escarpment looks more imposing than it is. The rim and adjacent rimrock-stepped hills are not your typical highlighted range or peak-bagging target, but on my many traverses of I-80, I have always stared at its capping outcrops and I simply had to get up there.

My Route Exit 244 – Argenta – provides a jumping-off point from either direction while traveling Interstate 80. Turning south and then immediately east, a paved road heads toward the mine entrance at Mosquito Canyon; do not turn for the gate. Continue east on the highway frontage road as it changes to a maintained dirt road. This road veers sharply south as it heads for Water Canyon on its eventual path to a set of radio towers at the southern prominence of the rim. The towers sit at what is sometimes referred to as Argenta Rim West, but I am not sure where databases in Googleland collect naming information – I have not seen this on a USGS map yet. As a very simple alternative, driving the road to the towers gets you to the rim, if hiking the escarpment without much elevation gain sounds attractive. I stopped driving as soon as the road overlooked the swale of Water Canyon. A cold morning rain made the road slightly interesting and the truck’s tires were beginning to chew things up and spit muddy clods into the wheel wells. Although some clearance gives confidence, the road is an easy drive for most vehicles, when conditions allow. There are places to pull off along the road and these provide good parking, but use caution and quickly shut down your rig as, in season, the grasses can be brutally dry and fires start all too easily. But on this spring day, the rain had soaked everything.

After an overnight, spring storm.

My route basically dropped into the dry wash of Water Canyon and continued straight east to southeast, up swales and ridges toward a narrow break in the rimrock. It was still quite cold and the freeze line seemed to remain at about the 2,130-meter contour (7,000 feet) where ice draped the rocks and pogonip clutched at larger brush. The ice crystals playing in the bright yellow lichen made for a pretty hike, the scudding clouds gave it a touch of drama. I cut through a few outcrops and gained the top of the rimrock – you could pick about any spot to access the top, but there are a few natural stairways. The summit is undramatic but the views into the Humboldt River Valley and along the slopes into Whirlwind Valley are worthwhile, especially when framed by the low, moving cloud-line. A thin veneer of snow and windswept frost decorated the sloping escarpment.

On the summit of Argenta Rim.

After the relatively brief vertical gain of about 500 meters (~1,600 feet) from truck to summit, the drop back to Water Canyon Road was quick and easy—500 meters is my minimum rule for thinking about an ascent as a “climb”. It is an arbitrary number, but it allows a lower margin for routes to search out and consider.  The point is to get out and see things, experience the pogonip, wander an escarpment, and get into the view that the windshield fleetingly provides. Argenta is worth a stop.

Argenta Rim, out and back, a worthwhile jaunt.

Holiday at Planet X

D. Craig Young · November 24, 2017 · Leave a Comment

Planet X and Smoke Creek Desert

One of my favorite respites from road-weary travel in the Black Rock – High Rock country of northern Nevada is a stop at Planet X Pottery. John and Rachel have become great friends over several decades of occasional, but all-too-rare, visits to their home and gallery northwest of Gerlach. Our shelves are lined with the basin-born art, pieces having evolved to daily utensils that maintain our connection to the desert at the foot of the Granite Range.

We went out to visit John and Rachel and to share Thanksgiving dinner, taking a holiday break with a drive into northwestern Nevada. We are rarely confined here at StoneHeart, but we will take any opportunity to shrink into the space of the Smoke Creek Desert. The forecast called for a chance of an early-season, slider storm. Hard to predict where the fast-moving fronts will have an impact, but they usually provide an active sky.

Planet X Collection

I took some time in the evening to follow the build-up of moody skies. I circled the property, walking the desert in search of compositions that would give a sense of space while also highlighting some subject of interest. I kept coming to views of the Planet X gallery set against the changing skies. John and Rachel often use images of the gallery and its desert habitat to advertise gallery shows and to highlight its unique setting. I thought I might try to add a few to their collection, a thankful expression of many years of welcoming visits and a wonderful Thanksgiving dinner to come.

Wind vane, Great Basin, Nevada. Installation on Smoke Creek Desert.
The vanishing at Planet X. I love lonely, straight-line roads, especially where good friends are found. 1/50 sec, f/8, ISO 100; Canon 5Div, Sigma 20mm F1.4.
First storm. The skies turned ominous in the late evening of Thanksgiving. The storm, however, passed us by — dramatic decoration only. 0.5 sec, f/8, ISO 100; Canon 5Div, EF 17-40mm F4L (17mm).

The skies cleared in the early morning. After a few very early excursions outside the house, watching the constellations spin above the desert, I drove into the pre-dawn darkness to work on a series of sunrise shots in the arroyo of Squaw Creek west of the gallery. These are the kinds of images I really want to make work. Arid landscapes with prominent landforms or compelling evidence of geomorphic process and change—highlighting the beauty, subtlety, curiosity, and occasional drama of the natural systems of deserts and mountains. High hopes, and though unsuccessful this morning, I enjoyed, as always, engaging the landforms and watching the light of the morning come alive. It was good practice.

Arroyo dawn. Waching sunrise over Squaw Creek arroyo at the margin of the Smoke Creek Desert. If I am going to highlight landforms, I need to compose with their features as clear subjects of interest. The sunrise dominates this composition. 1/4 sec, f/16, ISO 100; Canon 5Div, EF 17-40 F4L (17mm).

I spent the mid-morning wandering the gallery taking hand-held stills of the beautiful habitat of art and life around the gallery. This was not something I’d practiced at all previously and I enjoyed the outcome.

Morning bell. A scene from the porch gallery at Planet X. 1/160 sec, f/7.1, ISO 100; Canon 80D, EF 24-70 F4L (35mm).
Wheels and wood. Looking for patterns and contrast. 1/640 sec, f/5, ISO 100; Canon 80D, EF 24-70 F4L (26mm).
Broken window. Painted ceramic by John Bogard; my favorite of his motifs. 1/125 sec, f/5, ISO 100; Canon 80D, EF 24-70 F4L (42mm).

Planet X Collection

Thanks so much to John and Rachel for our holiday escape to Planet X. We will return with pies someday soon.

Keep going.

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